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楼主: 依然很拽

热转印线路板

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发表于 2017-1-12 12:50:21 | 显示全部楼层
医药店里有95%的,也很便宜,一桶2.5升的,也就十几元。
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发表于 2017-1-12 17:33:42 | 显示全部楼层
使用丙酮,是不是要了解一下它的特性呢?
燃点低、高挥发性、是否有毒害?

百度百科了一下,说是皮肤不能长期接触,另外,好像也有一定的毒性。
我再去找化学方面的人士了解一下。

大家都来说说...
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发表于 2017-1-16 21:41:55 | 显示全部楼层
找了张激光打印的纸实验一把,暂时处于失败状态,纯丙酮可以把字化开,8:3兑好的溶液搞不动,明天换个打印机试试.激光打印机墨粉是包裹碳颗粒的塑料球,丙酮可以把塑料球溶化,但不同牌子的的墨粉用的塑料不一样,故溶化效果也不一样,看样子要么调整溶液比例,要么换墨粉.
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发表于 2017-1-16 21:43:58 | 显示全部楼层
热转印是靠热把碳粉中的塑料融化,这招是靠有机溶剂,殊途同归.
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发表于 2017-1-17 19:33:54 | 显示全部楼层
dongchana 发表于 2017-1-10 18:20
谢谢斑竹鼓励,换了新的碳粉,可以了!!碳粉很重要!!!
请看图,效果很好!!

你买的是那种丙酮?进展怎么样了,弄电路板成功了吗?
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发表于 2017-1-18 11:43:32 | 显示全部楼层
Heatless (cold) Toner Transfer (for PCB)

Preface

Toner transfer tecnique for making PC boards is really practical and economical. The use of heat for transfering is not. for Large boards because expand with heat and toner does not adhere uniformly mainly and heat is applied to the paper side and not to the toner contacting the copper below. In this video I will describe a very simple technique I've been using for over 15 years. It is very fail-proof and involves the use of only 2 very common chemicals: Ethylic alcohol and Acetone. Alternatively to Acetone you can use Toluene or Xylene, (proportions may vary)

Ethylic alcohol 乙醇 Acetone 丙酮 Toluene甲苯  Xylene二甲苯Toner碳粉

碳粉冷转印法做电脑线路板:

前言

电脑线路板碳粉转印技术的确是可行的和经济的。热转印不适合做大面积的热态线路板,因为热扩散法碳粉不能均匀地吸附在铜箔板上,热量会传导在纸的边缘不会接触到下面的铜箔。在这个视频里,我会讲述一个非常简便的技术,这个技术我已经用了15年。这个方法是非常可靠的,只涉及到两种非常常用的化学品:乙醇和两酮。你也可以用甲苯或是二甲茶来替代两酮(不过比例有变化)
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发表于 2017-1-18 12:13:36 | 显示全部楼层
How It Works

1) ALCOHOL
In this experiment you can see that Alcohol is absolutely neutral to Toner and paper.
2) ACETONE
Here you can see that ACETONE (pure) dissolves the toner immediately. Paper remains unaffected.

By mixing Acetone and Alcohol in precise proportions, you will obtain a solution which will SOFTEN the toner enough to make it "STICKY" but not dissolve or blur.
Experimenting, I found this "magic" number to be:
8 parts Alcohol 3 parts Acetone
some toners may require a higher acetone ratio
You can store the solution in an airtight container. If it is a plastic one it should be made of HDPE (high density polyethilene) which is unaffected by ACETONE. Acetone is much more volatile than alcohol so exposing the solution to air will decrease its concentration.

Polyethilene聚乙烯

原理
①        酒精:在这个实验中你可以看到酒精对碳粉和纸是绝对中性的。
②        丙酮:在这里你会看到丙酮(纯)很快溶解了碳粉,而纸仍然没有受到影响。

通过丙酮和酒精精确配比,你会制得一个既能软化碳粉,又能使碳粉吸附在铜箔板上,但不会被溶化和不会被弄糊。通过实验,我发现神密的配比是8份酒精,3份丙酮。有的碳粉丙酮的含量需要高些。做好溶液后,你可以把溶液用密封的容器装起来,如果用的是塑料的瓶,那么这个塑料瓶一定要用高密度的聚乙烯做的瓶,这种瓶不会受到丙酮的影响。另外丙酮是比酒精还要高浑发性的液体,如果让溶液暴露在空气里,它的浓度会下降。
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发表于 2017-1-18 13:45:08 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 grandchen99 于 2017-1-18 15:12 编辑

Procedure

Clean the copper surface of the board with steel wool and water as you normally do. Rinse with water and dry with kitchen paper.
Spray board and LASER print with alcohol and wipe with kitchen paper. This will remove any oil and fingerprints. Do not touch.
Pour a small quantity of acetone-alcohol solution on the copper side of board. Spread uniformly with fingertip If clean!).
Acetone is much more volatile than felcohol so these steps should be performed as quickly as possible, or acetone will lose concentration.
Place the print on the board and quickly position it in place avoiding perpendicular pressure. Once jn place, gently push down (no pressure yet) until the entire print is in contacting the solution.
Wait 5-10 seconds before applying firtal pressure. During this time ACETONE is reacting with the toner, rendering it sticky.
Now give a perpenclicular pressure (na horizontal shift) firmly with the aid of kitchen paper for even distribution.
wait 2 or more minutes until all solvents are totally volatilized.
Dip the board in water for at least 2 minutes. Time may vary, depending on th^ paper used I use        coated paper. Don't use transparency papers it won't allow for proper evaporation of solvents.
Carefully peel the paper off the board starting from a corner.
You can see there is absolutely no toner on the paper, It's all on the copper
For larger PC boards I place the board laserprint between 2 blocks of wood, and press together with a C-Clamp. I add a few layers of kitchen paper between print and wood to distribute pressure evenly.

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For board etching, use your favorite technique. My favorite is the Sponge & Ferric-Chloride one I believe it's the most economical (very small quantity of etchant) and fast (you can actually see the progress).

操作步骤:

   就象你平时做的那样用钢丝棉球清洁铜箔板表面,用水清洗,用餐巾纸擦干。在铜箔板
上喷洒(雷射)一些酒精,再用餐巾纸揩干,这会除去铜箔板上的油污和手指头印。此时手指
再也不能碰触铜箔板了。
   倾倒少量的配好的丙酮乙醇溶液于铜箔面,用指尖把液体整个板面弄匀(手指事先要弄干
净)。因为丙酮比酒精较易挥发,所以这些步骤要尽可能地作得快些,不然的话,丙酮会减
低它的浓度。
   把打印好线路板的纸放在铜箔板上迅速对好位置,避免垂直重复,一旦对好了,轻轻地放
下(还不能加压),直到整个电路图都和药水接触,等5至10秒钟再进行关键的加压。此时丙
酮和碳粉起反应了,起到了粘的作用了。
   现在给一个垂直的牢固地加压,不要水平移动,可用借助餐巾纸帮助。
   等2分钟或更多一点时间,直到所有的溶液都挥发掉。
   把铜箔板浸在水里至少2分钟,时间会不一样,这取决于我们打印用的纸,我用的是铜板纸。
不要用透明纸打印,透明纸溶液不易挥发。
   小心地从铜箔板的角上开始把纸揭去。
   这时你会看到,在纸上没有留下一点碳粉,碳粉全印到了铜箔板上了。
   对于大块的电脑线路板,我在激光打印纸的上面再复以一块木板,然后用C型夹具把线路
板和木板夹在一起。在打印纸的上面垫一块加压的木板,中间垫数层餐巾纸来解决,以使加
压均匀。
   
说明:
对于线路板的刻蚀,可用你们自己最喜欢用的方法。我最喜欢的的方法是海棉──三氯化铁,一个是因为这个方法是最经济的(用最少的腐蚀剂),最快的速度(你能看到腐蚀的整个过程)
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发表于 2017-3-11 15:27:54 | 显示全部楼层
楼主太牛了
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